Protect the Sacred Billboard Project El Paso, Texas Street Madonna- On the El Paso freeway going East, near the entrance to Fort Hood Army Base and the Mexican/US border crossing - the latest billboard stands 30 feet in the air, you can see it from a distance. The billboard looms over the freeway and businesses below. It’s a simple message in Spanish, Protege lo Sagrado - Protect the Sacred. I was compelled to name this billboard Street Madonna and here’s why- The Street Madonna image was taken at a tent town along the United States/Mexican border crossing. Tent towns are filled with migrant families living in cheaply made shelters that line the street, one right after the other. Tent housing for families seeking asylum in the United States - waiting for a miracle . There are a lot of children in these tent town learning to survive on the streets of Juarez. One day I saw a young girl crossing the street to meet up with even younger girls waiting on blankets placed neatly near a garbage can. With pieces of paper and a pencil in hand – the young girl was on her way to teach school. In that crowded, dirty street young girls were gathering to learn. Gathering to form community. Young girls in the most challenging of circumstances taking care of themselves and one another. My heart both soared and broke all at the same time. *The Street Madonna image has been digitally remastered. Grand Candela - El Paso is a fast growing city, about 840.545 people, mainly people of color. The city has a rich multi-cultural history defining present day El Paso - I wrote about that in earlier entries. In more recent years the border has taken center stage in the issue of immigration.

On August 3, 2019…. Patrick Crusis a 19 year old man drove from Allen, Texas to the Cielo Vista Mall Walmart on the East side of El Paso with the intention to kill Mexicans. Crusis shot and killed 22 and wounded 24 Walmart shoppers. Federal authorities stated they were treating the case as a hate crime. El Paso responded to the hate crime with a city-wide logo - “El Paso Strong”. These words can still be seen on public transportation buses, on bumper stickers and spray painted on the side of buildings all over the city. In grief El Paso found a way to succinctly address the hate crime and collective loss with the message of unity and comfort. In addition, the city built a memorial at the Cielo Vista Mall parking lot entitled, Grand Candela. Initially it was a little jarring to see a memorial to such a tragic event in a busy parking lot - and yet it was fitting. The Grand Candela represents a large candle, it’s made of perforated aluminum and stands 30 feet high. At night the Grand Candela is illuminated with a soft warm, light that contrasts the harsh florescent sign of Walmart. People come and go, taking pictures, coming to stand for a moment in remembrance of the El Pasoans who fell victim to hate. It’s a somber place, a place meant to remind us there is light and grace even in the parking lot of Walmart. *Because of Covid-19, future Billboards have been suspended until further notice.

Remembering

The highway billboard project I started 2 years ago continues at the Southern border of the United States.

It’s 4:00 in the morning and I’m sitting at my kitchen counter finalizing details for my trip to the Mexican border. Here’s theplan; I’m headed to Las Cruces, New Mexico and El Paso, Texas to better understand issues of migration, a complex issue as large and stark as the landscape itself.

I’m going into this aspect of Remembering with the intentions of better understand the issue from an indigenous perspective. Here is what I know at this point:

According to the National Commission of the Development of Indian People there are 25.694.928 in Mexico alone who identify as being indigenous. Historically indigenous peoples of

what is now Mexico and the US traveled freely trading goodsacross land that had no borders. Because of this trading system, the exchange was far more impactful than material items,information and cultural knowledge was shared in an impressive swath of territory that stretched far into Meso America and extended throughout what is now the Southwestern United States. Even today elements of Meso American influence can be seen in contemporary Pueblo culture.

My questions and research concerning the present migration issues began when I overheard a Pueblo person say the immigrants seeking asylum into the United States were coming up to change our way of life by exploiting limited resources and basically leeching from a rich country. This sparked questions for me. Was this Pueblo person simply mimicking what he heard from politicians on the evening news? Or was this something far worse, continued colonization by systems that expect complete assimilation and conformity? Issues of identity have become a familiar dialogue by contemporary Indians as we ask, what does it mean to be a Towa (Tewa for being an indigenous person)? Do arbitrary borders and foreign systems define our indigeneity? Do those definitions influence the way we suspect our own people of not belonging or not being enough of an Indian? These are the questions that are at the crux of my journey.

The Billboard Project, Remembering has previously focused on at risk environmental sites however, the complex and dangerous humanitarian concerns at the border have compelled me to question the way we as contemporary Native people are reacting to colonial systems that in time have compromised our sense of self and relationship to land and people who are like us.

This journey began with one statement by someone in my community, where it’ll take me, I do not know, but I am ready to navigate this challenging terrain. I invite you to share this discovery with me over the next week. Every day there will be an entry describing the land, the people and places I visit in my research that will culminate into a billboard that asks us to remember our brothers and sisters across the border.

-Nora

DAY ONE:

Heading into one hundred miles of a harsh environment named Jornada Del Muerto (Journey of the Dead Man) by Spanish conquistadors in the late 1500s.

Jornada Del Norte was part of the historic Camino Real traveled by the Spaniards traveling toward Northern New Mexico.

During the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 two thousand Spanish settlers, Socorro and Isleta Pueblo people crossed the Jornada Del Muerto retreating from the revolt.

Out of the two thousand travelers 1,200 made it and settling near what is now, El Paso.

Before the history of Jornada Del Mueto indigenous people navigated this rugged land, trading goods with other tribes.

I want to hear what that story is about.

Heading into the horizon traveling through the same country my people traveled through generations ago.

Day #1 of the trip ends up in Hatch, New Mexico.

Day TWO:

About 42 miles outside of Las Cruces, New Mexico, following the historic Camino Rael into El Paso, there are two small towns off the interstate, Anthony, Texas and Anthony, New Mexico. Total population in these twin towns - as of a 2000 census - is approximately 10,000 people.

82% of the population is Latino and Hispanic. The twin towns sit at the edge of the treacherous swath of land called Jornada Del Muerto (Journey of the Dead Man).

It’s windy and desolate and after all these centuries it’s still a place people are trying to pass through to get to somewhere else, possibly the reason why the Federal Bureau of Prisons chose this site to build the La Tuna Federal Correctional facility.

Ex prisoner, "You know Me" of the La Tuna Federal Correction facility writes a review of his time as an inmate in prison:

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Federal Bureau of Prisons in La Tuna in Anthony, Texas.

**El Paso del Norte border crossing in El Paso, Texas**

Remembering-

* Currently ICE detains immigrants in fifteen detention centers (including privatized facilities), in state and local jails, in juvenile detention center, and in shelters.

* In one single day in May of 2019, CBP (Customs and Border Protection) had nearly 20,000 people in custody - 5 times its capacity.

* 76,020 are unaccompanied children.

This little girl was in a tent village right on the border entry way into Juarez, Mexico. The tent village took up both side of the street. She was playing in the street with other children. From what I understand the people waiting are waiting to e… — This little girl was in a tent village right on the border entry way into Juarez, Mexico. The tent village took up both side of the street. She was playing in the street with other children. From what I understand the people waiting are waiting to enter the US.

DAY THREE:

Borders Part 1-

The Camino Real de Tierra Adentro (Royal Road of the Interior Land) was an historic 1,500 trade route between Mexico and

Ohkay Owingeh eventually renamed, San Juan Pueblo by Spanish conquistadors. The Camino Rael was a route of trade

and cultural exchange among Spaniards, Mexicans and indigenous peoples. The arduous journey North continued through the late 1800s

Although according to a Tigua * tribal member, Tigua community members continue to trade with indigenous tribes along the Camino Rael.

*In Spanish the people and language are called Tigua (pronounced Tiwa). The Tigua are federally recognized. They have tribal identity upon the land they are stewards of.

Parts of the Camino Rael are still traveled on today, not so much as a trade route, but to a land that promises better than what was left behind

Day 3 was filled with snapshots, split second images that last forever.

Day 4

What happens when you pass through the looking glass?…………………that’s tomorrow.

DAY FOUR:

Borders Part 2-

The United States Customs and Border Protection Agency estimates there are 55.000 migrants scattered along the Mexican border like the one here in Juarez, Mexico

Border streets are filled with small tents strung together only feet away from Customs. There are a few portable toilets at the end of the streets near over flowing trash bins, children played a game of tag nearby.

The humanitarian crisis is getting worse not better.

Out of those 55.000 immigrants - many of whom are mothers and their children - too few have yet to enter the United States.

Once past Customs and Border Protection at the entry way to El Paso, there is a forbidding welcome by armed men dressed in black wearing mirrored sunglasses.

However If you choose to enter illegally there are borders that will attempt to stop you.

Along the border fencing, at every mile there are CBP patrols. El Paso, Texas near Ysleta del Sur tribal land

And on the streets, Border patrol is ever present. El Paso, Texas

keep thinking of the Jornada del Muerte, the harsh journey made by so many indigenous people centuries ago.

I wonder how many of the 55.000 migrants trying to get into the United States are indigenous?

The irony is obvious.

“Our attitude towards immigration reflects our faith in the American ideal. We have always believed it possible for men and women who start at the bottom to rise as far as the talent and energy allow. Neither race nor place of birth should affect their chances.”
Robert F. Kennedy

DAY FIVE:

There have been moments - many moments - during my trip to the border that are indelible. Images that will stay with me forever.

Pictures stored on my computer, some I’ve shared and some are printed in me.

I saw human beings trying to cross the border under horrific circumstances. And, for the travelers who do cross over their journey is just beginning.

The Journey-

30 cents American gets you into a covered metal walkway that leads into US Customs. Anything carried in to the US must be screened.

A security man asks if I'm an American citizen. I pull out my passport grateful I have one.

20 minutes later, past 3 stations of inspections, large glass doors slide open and you are in America.

* The first street on American soil is the last part of border crossing. There is a toll booth with armed guards standing at the border entrance. Across the street is a high rock wall with Constantine wire coiled along the top.

* The second street still feels like Mexico. It’s America but it’s not. It’s the poor side of town where rent is cheaper and the sidewalks need repair.

* Gentrification begins by the third street with more office buildings and restaurants closer to downtown El Paso. The sidewalks have been newly poured. It’s clean.

* Intangible borders

……And yet there is this…………Day 6…………...

DAY SIX:

“No level of border security, no wall, doubling the size of the border patrol, all these things will not stop the illegal migration as long as a 7-year-old is desperate enough to flee on her own and travel the entire length of Mexico because of the poverty and the violence in her country.”

-Jeh Johnson
Former United States Secretary of Homeland Security from 2013 - 2017”

One of the objectives of this research trip was to identify a billboard site. This particular billboard is located in downtown El Paso.